I don't know if I have ever so completely fallen under the spell of a place so quickly. There is something magical and addictive about Pai and the more time you spend here the more in love you fall. I have met so many people who came for a few days and are still here, months later. It is easy to see why. The weather is sunny and gorgeous - not too hot and not too cold. It is rainy season, but I've found the rain usually comes for an hour or two or in the afternoon. The rain keeps it cool and keeps the hoards of tourists away so I have no complaints. There are a thousand cute coffee shops, restaurants, bars, to hang out at as well as numerous stunning guesthouses that let you use their pools very cheaply, so you can spend the day lounging around in style. At every turn it is green and beautiful and there are so many trips that can be taken to waterfalls, hot springs, wats, villages. Time gets lost here.
I have moved from my cute bungalow to Mountain View, a guesthouse just out of town on a mountain (hence the name) that has quite a few long termers staying there. I have a great Aussie roommate, Emily, and between us we are paying 2,000baht or about $60 for the month. Yesterday we took our scooters and drove this stunning loop around the countryside to a local wat. A typical day includes sleeping in, meeting friends at a local restaurant, scootering to waterfalls, canyons, wats, and hot springs, swimming at a local pool, eating Thai food, and going out to local music and bars with friends, or sometimes just doing nothing. :) Life is good.
Here I am. Pai. For those not familiar, Pai is one of the undiscovered gems of Northern Thailand, above Chiang Mai, a backpacker hippie down, far away from tuk tuks and the chaos of Bangkok. I have rented a cute little bungalow in a garden for all of 100baht ($3) a night. A scooter to explore the countryside. Imported some friends from Chiang Mai. Visited my volunteer office, so I know where to start work on Monday. I am all set for the next two months I plan to spend here.
And now it is the weekend and the day is stunning. With my incredible sense of planning that puts me in India in 45 degree weather, I have also arrived in Northern Thailand smack dab in the middle of rainy season. Today though God has granted a reprieve, probably for my good behavior. :) And I am going to properly appreciate it. First stop, a local waterfall with some swimming and people watching. I feel restless though and head off. I hit a T in the road. The sign says Pai, with an arrow to the right, or some long Thai name with an arrow to the left. I see the open windy road. Impulsively I head left - the road opens up before me; gentle curves, up the mountain and then down; long open stretches though green rice paddies...I just hit the accelerator and drive and drive. Linkin Park blasting in my headphones and some Lady Ga Ga as well, singing at the top of my voice, wind in my hair, sun beating down, all worries and cares left behind. I am simply alive, driving too fast, soaking in the moment.
About 25km from Pai I hit a rest stop at the top of the mountain, the valley stretches below me. There is a sign for a place called Lod cave. Sounds interesting. Not sure how far it is, but I just keep driving and about half an hour later I arrive at a giant cave. It is so big a river runs through it. I am loaded onto a bamboo raft that is poled by a cute 10 year old boy, and a guide who holds a giant glass lantern. Off into total darkness we go. Eventually we leave the raft and I am led into the darkness, the guide pointing at different stalagmites...elephant...monkey...popcorn. Huge caverns. One wonder after another.
There are actually three caves, unfortunately the other two are flooded due to the rainy season, but I stop at Cave Lodge, a guesthouse a few km away, that is situated on the river with gorgeous bungalows, a huge chill out area, and a swimming hole. It looks like the perfect place to spend a weekend, exploring the caves during the day and hanging out with friends drinking, or playing cards in the evening. The lodge offers a bunch of different kayak trips through the caves. The most interesting one is 13 km through all three of the caves, taking 4 to 5 hours. I know I will be back.
As I head home, flying down the road, I am on top of the world. This is why I travel. No day is ever boring or predictable. I can wake up in the morning and end up in a spontaneous random adventure in the afternoon. I can tell that life in Pai will be good. Oh and I have room in my bungalow for anyone that wants to join me. :)
